Crossroads

Morning routines are taking less time; I'm honing my actions, streamlining every step. The dogs have eaten, the cabin's sorted, and I'm ready to hit the trail once more.

The treacherous downhill unexpectedly begins without warning; it twists and turns, not easily visible. A true mountain slope. Clouds soon gather, rendering my view uncertain. Stress creeps in, yet I maintain control, prioritizing safety. At one point, I even attempted to descend without skis, a plan that failed spectacularly. I plunged through the snow, my skis taking their own paths downhill. The most challenging part seemed to be behind me when I started worrying about the descent. Nonetheless, this stretch took a couple of hours.

Approaching the Sälka STF camp, I pass without pausing. The rhythm is peaceful again, the trail well-worn, and we're making good progress. Encountering the German couple I met at Alesjaure, our conversation remains brief. Their mutual bond seems stronger than their connection with the outside world. It's a noticeable difference when traveling with someone. The dogs are excellent companions, but many questions still need answers from within. Reaching STF Singi, I remain undecided about my next move. The decision is made in conversation with the camp host, a young, bearded man. I share stories about the dogs, my initial experiences, the storms, and today's pleasant weather. I indulge in warm lemonade, and as Ario mentioned, the desire to stop dissipates. Stepping off the trail would mean just that. Kvikkjokk! It feels remarkably straightforward. Moving forward fills me with joy, especially crossing the frozen river delta. Although tempted to quicken the pace, I remind myself: 'Don't rush, don't rush, don't rush.' We gradually pass through a forest, a gentle change from the imposing mountains. Without any special breaks, we arrive at Kaitumjaure. Similar to the previous camp, I opt to stay overnight after chatting with the host—this place is incredibly inviting. It's still early; the evening stretches ahead as it's only 4 pm. I set up the tent by the courtyard, staking out a spot for the dogs. Dinner follows, along with conversations with Swedish youngsters, discussing climate change while playing card games. They're intrigued to hear that my living conditions mirror those of the camp. I inquire eagerly about the steep slopes and route options, receiving conflicting opinions. The decisions will have to be made tomorrow.